i found all six of the new releases to be average (eau de cologne) to downright nauseating(rue cambon, 18). that's really bad english, but the new chanels bring out the worst in me, so great is my disappointment in them. would that i had saved the cash i squandered on them on ebay had been saved for one bottle of cuir de russie.
... might indeed be related. I could absolutely see loving both! I haven't had the chance to properly test them (only two wrists and not much time to go to Chanel) so I can't really say why. Actually, the "vagueness" of the new Chanels are part of their attraction for me. As though they left some space for the skin to shine through. Due to their concentration, maybe? Their texture is more chiffon than opulent velvet, brocade or the signature Chanel tweed. To continue on the couture metaphor, I would say they come from the "atelier flou" (think evening dresses, draped and ethereal) rather than the atelier "droit fil" (where more constructed pieces are assembled). One thing I was wondering about is whether Karl Lagerfeld (very much a "constructed" man) had any input on these. I somehow doubt it.
but it seems polge was the mastermind. i gather that from reading in the edwards book on polge's inspiration for coco in chanel's apartments. it seems that these new perfumes are a next chapter of polge's earlier explorations.
i love the word "flou." i think flou should be a new subculture or orientation. what do you think?
... is an idea I've very glad to have come up with concerning perfumes! I've also been thinking about the Chanel codes, inasmuch as Karl reinterprets them each season on the runway (easy to spot: the entwined Cs, the camelia, the quilted fabric, the two-tone shoe, etc). How did Polge deal with this heritage for this olfactory equivalent of, not exactly couture (that would've been semi-bespoke scents) but of an exclusivity which he had never catered to ? He couldn't visually represent. He took the names of Chanel landmarks for those of perfumes. In what measure did these dictate the elements of the "jus"? I don't know. What, in his compositions, which strike many wearers as somehow very Chanel, is specifically Chanel? Abstraction? Extracts used in the other heritage scents? Do they have anything in common with his more mainstream compositions (Coco, Allure, Chance)? I wonder. Any input would be welcome, I'm writing an article this minute on the Exclusives for an art review magazine...
I find myself dissappointed in the Exclusifs. I just reviewed Bel Respiro and I don't feel it reflects anything of Chanel. Although I have heard the argument that say, Coromandel continues an exploration of Chanel's baroque decor, and say, Bel Respiro includes some of the notes or accords of No. 19, I just don't adore these new fragrances as much as I want to. Truth be known, I don't adore Polge's Chance, Coco Mademoiselle, Allure, Allure Sensuelle, or Coco, either, the way I revere No. 5, No. 19 or No. 22. Whether Polge is doing a spare ultra transparent fragrance like les exclusifs or one of his more complete full bodied works, I don't think this work lives up to the Chanel I love. No. 18, 31 Rue Cambon and Coromandel do have quality and refinement to reccommend them, though. I am willing to give them that.
Someone, on some blog (if it's you, my apologies for not giving you credit) suggested layering La Pausa with Rue Cambon. I tried it and I love it. It gives a greener top note and also changes the drydown, actually lightens it. Something I could do for daytime. I am exploring Bel Respiro now.
I haven't -- don't own any of them yet -- but I would imagine, for instance, that Bel Respiro might do well over 31 rue Cambon and N°18 with just about any of them.
but 31 Rue Cambon is jaw dropping beautiful. Lots of clean bergamot on top and spicy sandalwood underneath. I don't think I will ever for even one day of my life be as polished as this. It smells even more expensive than it is. Nice sillage, but not so much that you have to go easy on it and although elegant enough for evening, you could wear it during the day.
Does your comment that you won't ever be this polished mean you didn't buy? I haven't popped for any of them yet. I had the same attraction to 31 rue cambon that I do to Guerlain Sous le Vent, one of my all time favorites.
Haven't bought full bottles yet. I just have decants of a few of them, but 31 RC is on my must buy list a little behind Bois des Iles. I'll pick up BdI first since it is widely available at a discount. I do hope that some of these are released in EDP. And I'm used to my perfumes being more polished than I am. My perfumes don't spend their days driving and nagging teenagers
the new chanels
Sous le vent and 31 rue Cambon...
not sure...
but it seems polge was the mastermind. i gather that from reading in the edwards book on polge's inspiration for coco in chanel's apartments. it seems that these new perfumes are a next chapter of polge's earlier explorations.
i love the word "flou." i think flou should be a new subculture or orientation. what do you think?
Flou...
Today
I find myself dissappointed in the Exclusifs. I just reviewed Bel Respiro and I don't feel it reflects anything of Chanel. Although I have heard the argument that say, Coromandel continues an exploration of Chanel's baroque decor, and say, Bel Respiro includes some of the notes or accords of No. 19, I just don't adore these new fragrances as much as I want to. Truth be known, I don't adore Polge's Chance, Coco Mademoiselle, Allure, Allure Sensuelle, or Coco, either, the way I revere No. 5, No. 19 or No. 22. Whether Polge is doing a spare ultra transparent fragrance like les exclusifs or one of his more complete full bodied works, I don't think this work lives up to the Chanel I love. No. 18, 31 Rue Cambon and Coromandel do have quality and refinement to reccommend them, though. I am willing to give them that.
Chanels
Great idea. I've heard people refer ...
to the exclusifs as accords more than classic compositions so it makes sense they layer well. I am going to try that.
Tried layering yet?
Only tried one so far...
I was transported too...
Does your comment that you won't ever be this polished mean you didn't buy? I haven't popped for any of them yet. I had the same attraction to 31 rue cambon that I do to Guerlain Sous le Vent, one of my all time favorites.
31 Rue Cambon